Hydro Dipping Tank Systems Overview
Hydrographics Tanks have not changed for over 10 years. UNTIL NOW! The original design came from an overseas manufacturer for hydro dipping applications. This original design has never been changed by anyone in the industry. Naturally you would say well…if it isn’t broke why fix it? That is exactly what we asked ourselves. Being dippers by trade we began to conceptually design a tank with the functions you need for not only hobby dipping but also being able to handle production. We sought out to redesign the way tanks are made and how they function. There are definitely a few challenges with the OLD system. We will discuss and outline the changes we made and why these changes make our tanks the most efficient on the market! Please read below and educate yourself on the important details when purchasing a tank. In our experience the buyers who do the most research always come back to us after understanding the benefits of our system.
WHY ARE WE DIFFERENT?
Immersion Heater VS Flow Thru Heater
In order for your hydro dipping projects to come out the way you want temperature is one of the key components. Ideal temperature is 90 degrees which is why you have probably noticed other hydro dip tanks come equipped with a heater. The way we heat the water is our fundamental difference.
THE OLD VERSION | IMMERSION HEATER
Like you have probably seen in Youtube videos and online research all tanks use an immersion heater to heat a hydro dip tank. This heating system does work. How it works is by using radiant heat. In old tank designs the immersion heater is placed in the filter area of the tank. You turn on the heater and wait for the heat to radiate from one end to the other. Because of the inefficiency of this heating method some competitors offer multiple heaters to compensate for lack of heat circulation. In addition to having the heater exposed in most systems they can also corrode and break 2-4 times within a year. Immersion heaters are not cheap if you have to replace one let alone twice in a year. On top of that your tank will be down for maintenance until you can get a new one welded in to the tank. More often than not the heaters are welded into areas where you may need to hire a contractor to replace it for you. Heating this type of system can also be a nuisance as you continue to turn on and off the filter to move the hot water from the filter sump to the main body. You may need to do this a handful of times to keep the water from boiling and losing water as it steams out of the tank.
NEW VERSION | FLOW THRU HEATER
Our hydro dip system uses a proven technology with multiple benefits. The first is the way it heats the water. As opposed to waiting for your tank to heat up with the old system. Because of our flow thru system the water is moving throughout the tank as it heats. To be put simply it heats while it filters the water providing two functions. The smart heater is built with a pressure sensor to monitor when water is flowing through the system. This allows you to have the power on the heater live at all times, but it will not kick on until it feels water pressure from the pump. In essence you can control the system by controlling the pump and filtration. Not only is this more efficient than radiant heat but our spray bar system also allows for heat to be distributed below the surface as well as above. Some of the challenges with old tank systems is heating the tank evenly because the heater is stationary. The importance of heating properly comes into play when you are ready for a dip session. If your heat is not evenly distributed after the dip your water temperature will change because it is colder on the bottom of the tank. When you use our system the entire tank is heated evenly which provides more consistent hydro dipping no matter how many times you dip.
TANK SIZE VS DIP SPACE
As a buyer one of the most confusing factors of purchasing a dip tank is what kind of dip space you are actually getting. This is an industry wide problem comparing dip tank size and usable dip space. We try to keep it simple for you. Our dip tank model number will determine how many feet of dipping space you are getting. Example…our SS6000 has 6ft of usable dipping space. The tank itself is actually 7ft of total length. Other manufacturers will list their hydro dip system as a 6ft tank. Usually once you read the listing details you will notice the usable dip space is up to 12 inches less than the listed number. There is a reason for this and we thought of it when we designed our hydro dip tanks.
The problem we identified was losing dip space to compensate for the filtration system. The old system using an inner wall to separate the sump side from the main body area. In the sump area is where they usually insert the immersion heater. There is really no way around it with the old system. Because of our new design we had the flexibility to move our filtration system to the outside of the tank. This design change offers two benefits. One is the increased dip space provided with our external filter system. Secondly we do not need to weld an entire inner wall saving you labor and metal costs in our price. Our external flow thru filter system allows us to drastically decrease the amount of water needed in the sump. Because we are only filtering and not trying to heat from the sump we were able to substantially decrease the size of our filter box. With a better understanding of how our external filter system works you can now realize the simplicity of our dip tanks and the added benefits. When looking at a dip tank with an internal filter system you will notice in most cases a 6ft hydro dip tank may only have 5ft of usable dip space. Our tanks have an additional 12″ of dip and total space when compared to the old design. This is definitely something to look for when comparing pricing VS usable space.
Our hydro dip tanks come equipped with a secure and reliable frame. We use the best 304 stainless steel square tube with reinforcement where it counts. We offer two options when it comes to the shoes on our tanks. You can get a standard 360 degree swivel caster set. Or we recommend using our all-in-one leveling casters. Once you get the tank where you want it you can easily level it out with your hand no tools required. These are top quality leveling casters designed for easy cleaning and maintenance.
When it came to the design and structure of our tanks we did not take any short cuts.
OLD TANK DESIGN USES A BUTT WELD:
Butt welds are welds where two pieces of metal are to be joined are in the same plane. These types of welds require only some preparation and are used with thin sheet metals that can be welded with a single pass. Common issues that can weaken a butt weld are the entrapment of slag, excessive porosity, or cracking.
OUR NEW TANK DESIGN USES LAP WELD:
To weld (something) with the edges overlapping. A weld made with the edges overlapping. Lap welded joints are the most common connection in welded fabrication. In total they probably account for around 70 to 80% of all joints made by arc welding. No edge preparation is needed and assemblies in water systems are simpler. This makes for a more durable weld as the outward pressure of the dip tank pushes against the stainless steel walls.
The other dip tank distinction you will notice from tanks with an old design is the v bend weld. This usually looks like a v bend in the middle of the tank providing structure. The only issue with this type of bend is again it cuts into your total dip space. We use a rigid support hat which is tacked to the tank for stability and structure. This allows the deflection on the tanks outward pressure to remain in tact when filled with water.
WATER FLOW CIRCULATION
We have simplified the water circulation on our tank by integrating a T spray bar. Unlike other tanks on the market which may have multiple jets spraying to move water from one side of the tank to the other. Our system takes the water from the filter and moves it through 1.5″ Stainless Square Tube. The size of our pipe allows for maximum water flow ensuring the debris from dipping will make it to the filter. Because there is so much pressure our water pump is equipped with a 2 speed option. It has a slow speed for heating the tank and slowing down the water flow saving energy and making it more efficient. The second speed is charged up to move the water quickly for filtering and getting ready for your next hydro dip.
SIMPLIFIED CONTROL SYSTEM
To tie in our redesigned hydro dip tank system we have paired the controller to work seamlessly with the tank components. The controller comes equipped with a temperature controller which will maintain and monitor your temperature. I have seen multiple controllers with a mass amount of buttons and switches. Our controller is much simpler and more practical. As explained previously the heater only comes on when there is water moving through it. By controlling the pump you essentially are controlling the heater as well. The controller was designed to have both the dip and rinse tank pump connected to it. Each pump is given its own switch to toggle it on and off. The dip tank has a more functional switch allowing you to switch it from low speed for heating and high speed for filtering. The most important upgrade and functionality we designed in our controller is maintaining the temperature. Unlike other systems there is no good way to monitor the temperature without manually monitoring and filtering. Our controller in the correct setting communicates with a temperature probe attached to the tank. The probe is not placed at the top of the tank but down towards the bottom of the tank. This ensures your entire tank remains at a consistent temperature. We call it a smart system because once you set the desired temperature on the PID the controller will kick on and off automatically to maintain the temperature. How will this help you when hydro dipping? It allows you to leave your system on overnight at a desired temperature and it will maintain itself until you come in and are ready to hydro dip your next project!
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